Belize-Tobacco Caye, San Ignacio, Caye Caulker

1/27/11 - 2/5/11

***written Saturday 5th of February. Posted Thursday 10th due to power outages :)



Belize has been nothing short of amazing. Tobacco Caye was our next stop after Placencia...what an experience! We finally caught our boat to the island with one other couple.  Our boat was thin but long (maybe 20 feet). and from the crack we could feel underneath us as we rolled along in the waves, we weren't sure we'd get there in one piece....and this was before we saw the monster waters out deep.  Taking off from Dangriga Belize was an experience in itself.  Adam and the other man on our boat had to jump out in the water and help guide the boat so it wouldn't beach...this should have been a sign.  This and the fact that a kid was driving the little boat like a maniac.  The rest of the trip was nuts. We were completely soaked from the first few waves...if only they had all stayed small.  Lucky for me, I date a boat man who seems to be fearless of the water.  The more he laughed at how ridiculous this was, the more I prayed.  Needless to say, we got there safe and sound.  The fabulous news that came out of our white water adventure, was that being hosed in the face by salt water for 60 minutes completely kicked my sinus infection!

Adam helping the boat not to beach

Tobacco Caye is a very funny little island (it feels half the size of a football field).  The waters are absolutely beautiful.  Looking out from shore, it seems God took a pallet of 12 different blues and stroked the waters occasionally adding a hint of green to the tip of his brush.  When we landed we had a choice of a handful of places (all of them include 3 meals a day as there are no restaurants).  We got a little bungalow and headed to lunch. What an interesting group that stayed at our place.  There was a couple from France, an older gentlemen from Canada and an older gentlemen from Israel.  Canada and Israel laughed at each other as much as they yelled telling the other what an idiot he was.  At first it was uncomfortable but then very comical.  We all sat and listened to them for hours passing the rum around the table. We met a few girls who worked on the island that insisted Adam should cornrow his hair (also wanting our money).  As the storm was in full swing at this point and the rain was pouring from the sky, it was perfect timing for cornrows.  I couldn't stop laughing at how tough the sweet boy from the country looked...nobody messed with us for days! With only one exception...the local marijuana growers.

 

so happy to be on dry land!

The rains and storm held on through the night beating down like heavy fruit on our tin roof.  After breakfast the next morning we decided to jump the next boat knowing that if we didn't, we could be stuck for days. We were bummed because the weather allowed us no snorkeling or swimming but hey...that's all part of the adventure.


Before the return trip, I thought the first trip was scary.  The waves had grown overnight from the storm and thrashed and pulled at our piece of junk boat for the duration of the trip.  This time, we were forced to hunch over as low to our knees as possible and "hold on" to the slippery chipping seats below us for dear life.  We would get so much lift off from the waves that we'd brace ourselves on every one to lessen the impact and stay in the boat.  Many times the lift was so great that upon our slam back to the water we could feel a dreadful crunching of our spines.


After the grace of God put us back on dry land it was off to San Ignacio, Belize on the western side (boardering Guatemala).  San Ignacio was just as amazing as my good buddy Donna had told us about!  We found a wonderful CLEAN hotel as soon as we got there.  We spent three nights there soaking up what the sweet little town had to offer.  Our second day there we met a really nice couple from Denmark and we headed to Jaguar Cave and went tubing (floating in tire tubes through cold waters and dark caves).  We explored the Mayan ruins of Cahal Pech the next morning and spent the afternoon soaking up rays and drinking cold Belikins at a resort on the hill.  There's never enough time to do it all. That being said, we one day hope to go back for the ATM adventure everyone raves about (jungle hiking and caves).

Adam floating

jungle on both sides

Cait by Cahal Pech ruins

paradise for the afternoon at a fancy resort we found

toucan looking for fallen fruit

Monday the 31st of January, we left San Ignacio Belize early in the AM and were on the island of Caye Caulker well before noon.  Caye Caulker is known as the backpacker's island (for its laid back vibe and decently cheap prices).  Caye Caulker is a small island that you can walk around in 35-45 minutes...perfect size!  Lots of tasty restaurants, cheap but delicious street foods, locals selling their handmade jewelry and hammocks, and tour guide offices line the water front.  The place to swim on the island is known as "the split".  The split is like stepping foot onto one of Kenny Chesney's music videos.  Once again we were greeted by caribbean waters that stretched as far as the eye could see.  A little open air restaurant sits at the tip of the point that blares reggae music and serves up ice cold beverages for the thirsty swimmer.  Everyone smiles the same "we hit the jackpot smile" as their toes dance in the cool water and a frothy beverage sits close.  We found a little restaurant on the beach that plays outdoor movies and spent one evening there watching "The Tourist".  On Caye Caulker we finally got to do some snorkeling.  Sean was our guide and had the longest, thickest dreads I've ever seen.  He knew the waters.  He took us to a few spots where we saw lots of fish, coral, barracudas, eels, ect.  We ended our trip swimming way out on the barrier reef amongst nurse sharks and big stingrays (he caught a ray and had us each hold it).  The remainder of our time on the island was spent riding bikes, kayaking, swimming, laying on the docks, and drinking fresh squeezed orange juice by the liter.

resting up for before a swim to the island

beauty

coral reef

bar at the split

Adam trying to catch a fish

sting ray

posing for sunset

Thursday and Friday were travel days.  Thursday brought us back down the coast of Belize to Placencia.  Friday (after nearly missing our boat) we crossed via water to Honduras.  We got to La Ceiba Honduras last night (Friday the 4th) after 12.5 hours of boat/bus.  Today (Saturday) we took our first big boat out to Roatan, one of the Bay Islands and got here by 11am.  The crystal clear water here is the best swimming we've had.  We hit the beach, explored the town to make sure there are at least a few bars on the water that will air the SuperBowl, and picked up fresh seafood that we cooked up for dinner.  There are a lot of details that remind us that we're third world (buying food that clearly expired while I was still in diapers, electricity coming and going as it pleases, being so careful not to swallow even a bit of water while brushing your teeth, not flushing TP, meeting people who make less than 15$ a week, lack of hot water, vehicles that wouldn't dream of passing inspection in the states, bugs crawling all over your rented room, stuffing 4 grown men onto one school bus seat).  

But...... stepping out onto that picture perfect beach....nothing else matters :)        

West Bay

on the ride from Belize to Honduras

lots of fresh seafood and veggies